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FRONT LEAF SPRING INFO for STOCK Early Car/PU Front Dual Leaf Axles

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This tip will work on most all 26/38 Ply & Dodge cars and 26/41 Chevy cars plus many others makes including PU Trucks.

These type stock multi-leaf springs are usually in need of a good tune-up to make them ride and handle better for today's highways & roads. Friction is the main enemy of a multi-leaf spring, and is usually caused by rust. Also, they were designed when roads were terrible and rutted, etc. So we like to tune them down a little for our better roads that we use today.

The first thing to do is disassembly, checking for any cracks or even broken leaves. Replace any leaves, as needed. If the 3rd leaf is broken on one spring, then always replace that leaf on BOTH front springs so they will set at the same rate & height. Also, remove any bushings in each end of the Main Leaf (to be replaced with NEW bushings later).

But First: I like to look them over, with the weight still on them, to see if I can change the spring rate to a little bit lighter ride. If the arch is still pretty strong, then I like to trim anywhere from 1/2" to 1" off the end of each leaf. I do not remove any leaves except for maybe the shortest one or two at the most. NEVER remove any leaves in the middle area as this will make for a weak spring when you do occasion into that big hole in the pavement from time to time. This is a trial and error effort that is very important! You cannot add anything back, so I only remove 1/2" from each end first, then try them out for ride and handling.

After getting the leaves the way I want them, then I bevel the end edges, (you may also ROUND them off for less friction if you want), so that they will not have anything sharp to dig into the leaf below them. This eliminates more friction. Then I sandblast all the leaves completely clean and paint them with a good primer and paint to preserve them. Please, let them dry good before any re-assembly.

Then, just using scissors and a center hole punch, I cut the individual Poly-Ride Spring Liner Material to go between each leaf. I leave each liner a little longer that the spring leaf, about 1/4" to 1/2" longer on each end. Then, using the leaf as a pattern, I mark the center hole position and cut it through with a hole punch for the center bolt to go through.

Now it's time to replace the bushings in each end of the main leaves as needed. Some of our kits also come with a new set of Shackles to replace your old ones, and these will have a split half Teflon or Moly-Nylon type bushing set. Always replace the main leaf fixed end bushing if they are available. Then install new spring clamps to keep the spring leaves from "walking" edgeways. Even if you cannot find correct ones for your size spring, these can be made from S/S Band Clamps (radiator hose type) with a slip of cut rubber between them and the springs.

Our "BCS" Front Spring Tune-Up Kits for most all 1-3/4" springs (except 33/35 Ply-Dodge front), will normally come with the following: 2 - 20ft rolls of Spring Liner Material, 2 - 5/16" diameter Spring Center Bolts & Nuts, (cut off excess length as needed when assembled), 6 - 1-3/4" wide Spring Clamps with 1/4" Bolts & Nuts, Pair of Special Spring Shackles with Moly-Nylon Bushings.

Now that you have made your springs softer for a good ride, you will need to make sure they are dampened properly. I use the proven Pete & Jakes Shock mounting kit with their calibrated Hot Rod Shocks. They will work GREAT on most all early MOPAR, CHEV and most other cars & PU Trucks. Our shock kit & spring tune kit, along with a good set of smaller Radial Tires will do more for the ride and handling of your Hot Rod than most anything else.